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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. But, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has made the family utterly astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.